High Tide, The Sea In A Deep Dish – We

Enrique Valentí’s goal is to recover seafood stews, which he reinterprets using haute cuisine techniques.

Photo: Miquel González / Shooting

Enrique Valentí’s goal is to recover seafood stews, which he reinterprets using haute cuisine techniques.

Spoon recipes are the best medicine to face the low temperatures and take advantage of the season’s culinary strength. Tradition gives us numerous. However, we focus on seafood stews. The sea in the pot. As we savor the tuna cheek with Sant Pau beans and mojo, which Enrique Valentí serves at Marea Alta (Barcelona), he warns that the spoon has a privileged place on the menu because “they are disappearing due to the rush of modern life. In a few years it will be a luxury to eat on the plate. For this reason, I like the idea of ​​recovering and raising these strong recipes. I even joke with customers by telling them that it is the only avant-garde dish on the tasting menu, since they are stews that have no reference. They can only be eaten here.” Thus, the tuna with tomato is prepared using haute cuisine techniques, while the menu also advertises squid rice and some chickpeas inspired by Cadiz cabbage with marinated skate and nettles. For its part, Fran Lopez surprises in Xerta, also in Barcelona, ​​with eel in its juice, an emblematic subsistence dish of the Ebro Delta made with bread and wet and with a spicy touch. Arnau Boschfrom Can Bosch (Cambrils), recovers by order the monkfish rumesquet, a dish born in the fishermen’s boats, while Ricardo Sotres, from El Retiro, in Llanes, warms up its guests with a soup of llámparas (limpets), algae and lacón. In Ribadesella, these are called “llámpares”, and Bruno Lomban he adds them to a pot of rice with boletus. Carlos del Portillo recognizes “being very spoon and very linked to the sea,” he says. He is the chef at Bistronomika, a Madrid grilled fish temple where deep dishes are not lacking on their tables. The marmitako in season is glorious, the same as these days are the fresh white beans with a stew of cuttlefish in their ink. Her secret from him? The quality of the vegetables, which come from the Hijos de Calahorrano greengrocer, in Logroño, and which cooks the white beans in a fumet made with the bones of the fish that they prepare on the grill. All his stews contain clams, razor clams or Galician mussels, and when a good black bream arrives he prepares an intensely flavored stew. And if until a few days ago the verdinas with cockles from Noia and the chickpeas with squid and trotters triumphed, next week ask for the beans with razor clams from Cambados. Sa Brisa is the first Ibizan restaurant in the capital, a branch of the emblematic space on the island, owned by Esther Bonet and Pere Vendrell. let that Gonzalo Araguez I prepared the classic bullit de peix for him as if he were in La Pitiusa. The chef transmits through his preparations “the know-how of generations and the tradition of his land”. He makes it from a controlled cooking to get the right point of the fish. Likewise, instead of maintaining the traditional presentation in two steps, he serves the arroz a banda together with the scorpion fish so that we can enjoy the whole recipe. And he reveals to us that he is putting the finishing touches on the well-known lobster stew, which he reinterprets with the moray eel, “Muraena helena”, as the protagonist: “It is a dish that is eaten in Menorca above all, despite the fact that this fish is very laborious . It has a lot of collagen, perfect for binding stews, with which a broth with a great density of flavor is achieved. Likewise, in the new tasting menu that Alfonso Castellano has designed for the gastronomic bar of El Señor Martín, seafood recipes are not lacking either. Examples are stew with chickpeas and cuttlefish and beans with lobster. On the other hand, Victor Infantes he is the chef at Clos, the Madrid house owned by the sommelier Mark Granda, who runs Skina in Marbella. In the capital he suggests cod tripe for cold days. The key is that he makes them with the reduction of a beef tripe sauce and finishes them with a tomato emulsion and some green shoots of sequins or chickweed that provide a necessary fresh touch. Also in Madrid, stewed fideuá with potera squid that David Delgado cuisine at Taberna Los Delgado is as unbeatable as the beans with cod guts that Nino Redruello It is served in Fismuler, although it is well known that the La Ancha seafood clams are part of our culinary history. And of all the Salino dishes, we are left with Javier Aparicio’s cod rags. The sea in a deep dish.